Cologne’s old town was one of the keys to medieval Germany in more ways than one. The medieval city played a central role, having close ties to the German throne. Its cathedral, then much smaller than now, holds a priceless shrine that was one of the focal points of a procession essential to the coronation of the medieval German king-emperors.

The archbishop of Cologne anointed Holy Roman emperors of the Middle Ages in Aachen before crowning them German king, one of their titles. A ritual procession then took place through Cologne’s old town, from the Hahnentorburg gate to the cathedral. There, from 1164, the monarch did homage before the holy relics of the Three Magi.

The precious golden shrine of the Magi, completed in 1225, is a glittering example of medieval goldsmithing and jewellery and the associated rituals added to Cologne's mystique and power. Housing and honouring it was to be the cathedral’s purpose and three crowns were added to the city’s heraldic arms in recognition of it.

The Cologne archbishops, who were themselves rulers in medieval times, became key political players with a powerful voice in naming each new emperor.

Old town of medieval landmarks

Cologne’s old town has some of Germany's most extensive medieval remains, despite heavy World War II bombing that left almost all but the cathedral standing. It's unique to find such powerful medieval gates, now largely recreated, standing in a German metropolis, along with sections of city wall.

Nowhere else in Germany is blessed with such a varied array of Romanesque churches. Medieval artefacts inside complete their priceless heritage.

It is hard to call Cologne’s cathedral medieval. The building project, though started in 1248, was not complete until the 19th century and stood for centuries in two parts. But there are the 14th century windows, regarded as Europe's biggest of the period. The high altar, artworks and the stalls come from the same era. The medieval Shrine of the Three Magi now enjoys pride of place behind the high altar.

Today’s cathedral, consecrated to St Peter, was completed only though the work of the Prussian-German rulers of the 1800s, a job made possible after the rediscovery of medieval plans, which it reflects closely. Germany’s new Prussian masters were hoping to ingratiate themselves with a powerful Catholic city on the Rhine, so close to the French frontier.

Its extraordinary scope alone makes it worth the visit. The vast space is the equal of London’s St Paul’s. 

Cologne’s Romanesque churches

The city’s other churches, despite being in many cases altered and much restored, are much more medieval than the cathedral. Most were completed between the mid-12th century and late 13th and several used Cologne’s Roman foundations.

They were set in two rings around the cathedral in a High Middle Ages ideal for a holy city. Several were built as monastery churches, another element of the holy-city concept. Others have, sadly, been destroyed.

St Andreas preserves original Romanesque paintings and in the crypt is the tomb of the medieval church and natural philosopher St Albertus Magnus, but its hall is Gothic. The Basilika St Ursula was built on a Roman graveyard and bones from this were gathered into a unique reliquary, now called the Goldene Kammer. The Basilika St Gereon is a Romanesque adaptation of a complex 10-sided plan from a Roman mausoleum.

Basilika St Kunibert is late Romanesque and the saint’s relics were laid there. It has stained glass from the 1220s and parts of the 1250 wall painting can be seen in the baptistery.

The biggest of the Romanesque churches is Groß St Martin, with a 75m tower topped by a Gothic spire. The trefoil plan is a survival from the 12th century. The church lay in ruins after World War II and needed extensive reconstruction. The earliest of the city’s trefoil apse churches is St Maria im Kapitol, completed in 1065 over an 8th century convent church that is still visible in the crypt, which contains the relics of its founder St Plektrudis.

Byzantine influence shows in the Romanesque Basilika St Aposteln, which also has a trefoil apse, this from the early 13th century. But much of today's church is from its 11th century predecessor. The parish church St Pantaleon, altered since the 10th century, is where its founder, the first archbishop St Bruno, is buried. The church is another showing Byzantine influence and in an altar tomb is buried the Byzantine princess Theophanu, empress of Otto II.

The mid-12th century Cäcilienkirche is little changed in its outward appearance despite 15th century renovations. The towerless church replaced a 9th century home for women built over an even earlier Roman building. Today it is a museum of medieval and religious art.

The small Romanesque St Maria in Lyskirchen preserves its 13th century galleries and paintings of Old Testament stories from the same period in the vaults, either side of the altar and above the door. Its early 15th century wooden Madonna became an object of worship for Rhine boatmen, who adopted the church.

St Georg was completed late in the 11th century on the site of a former Roman guard house but rebuilt without a later Baroque tower. Its font is from the mid-13th century and the Gothic forked crucifix is from the 13th or 14th century.

The early 13th century Basilika St Severin had predecessors, including a 10th century church still visible from the crypt. The late Gothic nave was added and the single tower is taller than even Gross St Martin at 79 metres. The carved choir stalls are from late in the 13th century and the crucifix from the 14th.

Yet another Romanesque church stands in ruins. The bombed-out shell of the 12th century Alt St Alban has been left as a memorial to victims of bombing. The late Romanesque Overstolzenhaus on Rheingasse is an upper-class house of the period with stepped gable, now restored for business use.

Cologne’s Gothic landmarks

Medieval Gothic buildings also remain in Cologne. The mid-15th century Gürzenich is a rare Late Gothic banquet hall with corner towers. The 13th century Minoritenkirche was a Franciscan church where 14th century frescoes and a Gothic high altar remain. The late 14th century Antoniterkirche was built as a monastery church for the Antonite order but has been altered with a door in Renaissance style.

The surviving medieval towers of Cologne include examples from the 12 fortified city gates. The Eigelsteintorburg near Ebertplatz and the Severinstorburg at Chlodwigplatz were the main north and south gates and the mighty Hahnentorburg faced west.

The only other gate structure preserved is the early 13th century Ulrepforte, with a round tower reminiscent of those in Nuremberg. A section of wall known as the Kartäuserwall is attached, along with signs of an outer ditch of nine metres. It led to the Bayenturm, the Rhine south end tower and of Cologne’s 52 strongpoints.

The full semicircular network, easy to see in the city street pattern, extended up to 9km, making it Germany's biggest. The north Rhine tower was the 17-metre Weckschnapp or Kunibertsturm, visible today on Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer.

Raven Travel Guides Europe has compiled a comprehensive travel guide to Cologne, including its medieval and Roman remains and tips for travellers, all the details of visiting times and transport links. There is also a range of other German city guides. Explore more European travel tips at the Raven Guides website.