Roman past is at the heart of the city of Cologne

architecture beautiful cities & towns cologne european history germany museums roman empire Dec 07, 2024
Cologne Roman past

Cologne has a longer history than most German cities and this is thanks to the Romans.
Historic Cologne’s German past was built on its Roman past. The city was a creation of Rome’s power in the region about the time of Christ. The plan of that Roman city remains in the old town and the modern streets.

That doesn’t make Cologne a Roman city. Nowhere do we find a priceless preserved or restored Roman precinct with gates, houses, baths and a forum. If this is what you are looking for, close this blog and search ‘Pompeii’, or consider visiting Trier as the only German city with something approaching a full suite of Roman monuments.

But, if you enjoy walking the streetscape of a historical city and observing how the ruins of a Roman power centre were steadily absorbed into the monuments of medieval Cologne, you will love Cologne. A 2000-year-long story appears before visitors who are prepared to collect the pieces. You will be able to view the fruits of a handful of site excavations and visit Roman remnants in a museum environment.

You can see how a city evolved and changed. You can even retrace the wall of Roman Cologne on foot with little trouble in about 90 minutes or walk through a length of Roman sewer.

Cologne as a Roman centre

Most of Rome’s power was along and west of the Rhine, the river that for many centuries was the chief transport artery deep into Europe. Cologne was among its chief ports. In Roman times an arm of the river formed a long island that became a convenient mooring point.

There was a Roman garrison town on the Rhine under the emperor Augustus but Cologne became a city when the empress Agrippina, wife of Claudius, asked for the place of her birth to be elevated to the status of colonia, or Roman city. With this came civic institutions, public buildings, a wall and a grid of streets.

So Cologne got a Roman name. Memories of Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium still stand, including an arch of the main north gate – inscribed CCAA – and many finds now in the collection of the Römisch-Germanisches Museum.

Sections or foundations of the Roman city wall remain and can be followed by walkers with the right map – bronze relief maps built into footpaths at various sites make the profile easier to follow, especially along the north side.



The most complete Roman tower is the Römerturm, almost 6m high, the city’s then north-west corner, with intriguing solar images and geometrical patterns in limestone and sandstone that give a mosaic-like impression.

The upper section seems to have been part of a repair. In a 16th century sketch map it appears with a conical roof that must have been added in medieval times. It was then known as the Clarenturm after an adjacent convent, which it protected, and was used by the nuns as a latrine. Wall sections and parts of other towers are nearby.

Rome and today’s city

The cathedral, Germany’s mightiest, is not now (as formerly) believed to stand on the remains of a temple to Mercury Augustus, but its north wall does run along the city wall. The arch standing opposite the west portal is only a copy of part of the much larger and elaborate triple-arched and columned north gate.

This gate led to the main north-south Roman street, known in such cities as Cardo Maximus. This street line is followed by today’s Hohe Straße. Schildergasse marks the route of the former Decumanus Maximus. The two intersect where the forum probably lay.

The Römisch-Germanisches Museum, Cologne’s main museum, is built over the site of a Roman house with its intact floor mosaics. The Dionysus Mosaic and monumental works such as the Poblicus Mausoleum are among the leading exhibits from Cologne’s physical culture. The rest are further monuments, personal and household items such as jewellery, coins, remnant artworks and inscriptions. In this way visitors get closer to the lives of Roman citizens.

This museum is closed for renovation until 2026. Until then, exhibits from its collection can be viewed at the Belgisches Haus in Cäcilienstraße.

Offsite, but still part of the museum ensemble, are the footings of the Praetorium or governor’s residence, almost under today’s town hall. These can be viewed today, along with a section of Roman sewer tunnel.

The Rathaus tower parades restored statues of prominent Roman and medieval figures associated with the city.

The Rhine city wall stood behind today’s Rathaus. At the south end of today’s building, a city gate believed to have been dedicated to Mars opened to the Roman bridge that crossed the river.

Christianity was officially recognised in the Roman empire early in the 4th century and Cologne became one of the early bishoprics.

Several of Cologne’s priceless medieval churches rest on Roman foundations. The church of St Severin is consecrated to an influential 3rd century bishop, whose patronage of Cologne is celebrated even today. The church, with its 5th-century origins, shows Cologne’s pivotal role in spreading Christian belief across the German lands.

The site of the so-called Capitoline temple (perhaps honouring Jupiter, Juno and Minerva) became a 7th century convent, then the site of the 11th century Romanesque church St Maria im Kapitol. Beneath Great St Martin, largest of the Romanesque churches, are the remains of Roman warehousing that may also have been used as a sports complex. Under today’s church visitors can stroll through the archaeology.

The Cäcilienkirche was imposed over the Roman bath complex. The church of St Ursula was built over a Roman cemetery, as was St Gereon, consecrated to a Roman martyr.

Tracing Cologne’s Roman wall

The Römerturm is on Zeughausstraße near Sankt-Apern-Straße. For detailed instructions on how to follow Cologne’s Roman wall, download Raven Travel Guides Europe’s Cologne travel guide.

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